O'Cebreiro

"Each of us, wordlessly drawn to the scene, stopped one by one at a little distance from each other, to gawk. We stood in silence for some minutes, taking in the brilliant colours of the fields, earth, sky....", Sophronia Camp from Ultreia! Forward!

Today is right up there in being one of the most beautiful of the whole Camino. We were a bit apprehensive at the start because of a 700 meter climb. But it turned out to be very doable. The route took us first along a road through a narrow, wooded valley. Then it veered off and became a stony and sometimes muddy path. Up, up and up it went for several kilometers through mostly wooded terrain. We were on the trail with several other pilgrims, including a school class from Poland. 

After some time we reached the tree line and the views opened up all around us. We seemed to be in a wilderness at the top of mountains. Yet, somehow, we were heading for a village and our destination for the day. And, did I say how beautiful the weather was today!

At last we reached the fairytale village of O'Cebreiro, nestled on top of a mountain. It has Celtic roots as evidenced by its round buildings with thatched roofs. It boasts a 9th century church associated with the Camino. This village is the gateway to Galicia and from now on our weather will be influenced by the Atlantic. 

We have been blown away by the beauty of the town as well as the surroundings. The rustic hotel we are in is made of stone and wooden beams and there are wooden camino shells stuck on the headboards of the beds.

For dinner we will have to decide if we dare to try pulpo, a regional specialty of octupus. 

..........Well, we had dinner and it deatured the famous Galacian soup, which is kind of a thick, creamed vegetable soup. We paired it with a delicious local white wine. The food seems to be getting better as we are now in the province of Galicia.

Today's scenery.

Ancient Celtic dwelling.

The delicious white wine.

Camino shells on our beds.

Ambamestas

"We tracked upward and then downwards, speaking little. Yhere was no need to talk. It was a time of contentment, a time of reflection", Nicholas Luard in Ultreia! Forward!

Today was a short day of only 17 K but, of course, we had to climb over a mountain. Immediately upon leaving Villafranca we were on a very steep path that took us to the very top of the mountain. Slow and steady is the only way to do this. Once on top we had incredible views and relatively level paths that cut into the mountain side. Really a great hike! But eventually down we had to go again. But the descent was shorter and the footing much better than three days ago. After a coffee stop with old friends and new we arrived in Ambamestas to a very new and cosy inn. We are happy! Jeff ordered an amazing bottle of red wine and we celebrated the day. Now we have to wait until 8 PM for dinner!

Above Villafranca this morning.

A fabulous rainbow. We were spared the rain!

On a path cut into the side of a mountain.

Feeling on top of the world!

Arlene and I.

Our coffee break with old friends and new. The guy in red is Sietze from Friesland. The guy on the far left hails from Ottawa.

Rest day in Villafranca

Today we took our time getting up and ate breakfast at 9 AM. Then we wandered through the town, looking for an ATM machine as well as a Farmacia for Compeed products (blister pads). There was a market in town so we enjoyed browsing through that. For lunch we ordered some of the delicious local red wine but decided not to eat there. We wanted pizza so after our wine we moved to the next establishment and had lovely pizza (at last). Then, back to our room for a nap. And so it goes on a rest day! We met up with Joyce and Arlene and helped them to eat the cherries they bought at the market.

Villafranca Del Bierzo

After 23.4 K we have reached the lovely town of Villafranca. It is a wine town nestled against mountains we have to cross the day after tomorrow. For now, we are here and also tomorrow for a rest day. We are all pooped from the last few days. 

Today was very different from yesterday in that today we walked through a lot of towns and even along a highway. We are staying in a very nice small hotel that used to be the toll house for crossing the river.

When we entered the town we met up with Arlene and Joyce who had just arrived themselves. We plan to meet up for dinner later at the main square in town and probably compare notes on the last few days.

According to Brierly, the author of the guide book on the camino, we have 185.3 K to go to reach Santiago. Four weeks ago today we were crossing the Pyrenees. Hard to believe. 

Delicious soup we had yesterday for lunch. They brought a big bowl for us to help ourselves from.

One of the stony paths we negotiated to get down the mountain.

Today, in wine country again, approaching Villafranca.

One of many signs guiding the pilgrims on their way!

A photo of the photographer. 

Ponferrada

Today was the most beautiful and most difficult day of all. We woke up in Foncebadon, the abandoned village, to clear blue sky. At this altitude the broom and heather are mostly white. It's as if they take their cue from the snow that surely must lie there most of the year. We left the inn at 7:15 AM and were at the Cruz Fer in about 20 minutes. Here, millions of pilgrims have left a stone from home, representing sorrows and short comings. Jeff and I, also, had brought stones from home from the river in Tynehead Park and laid them at the foot of the cross. An emotional moment. 

We had 28 K to go, so off we went along lovely trails with incredible scenery of snow covered mountains and big hills and valleys covered with white, red and pink blooms. So far so good. But what is up must come down. And down we went for 1,000 meters along steep, stony trails. A nightmare for me. The poles helped a lot! The descent really slowed us down and we were on our feet for 9 hours today. This included a coffee break as well as a bowl of lentil soup by a Roman bridge. It felt like I went beyond my capabilities. But here I am in the lovely town of Ponferrada feeling good again after a lovely dinner of salad (hold the oil and vinegar) and broken egg (hold everything else like fries, etc.). Lemon icecream for dessert. And Rioja wine. 

Tomorrow we will have been at this for 4 weeks already. Our days will be shorter now although we still have one mountain to climb. We will see Arlene and Joyce tomorrow in Villafranca Del Bierzo. 

Laying my stone at the foot of the iron cruise, highest point on the Camino.

Stunning scenery on our mountain walk this morning.

A lot of the descent was on rocky paths.

Some sheep shearing in one of the villages we passed.

Early one morning last week. The risen sun on our backs and ever westward!

Foncebadon

We are blessed with beautiful weather again and today's walk was a delight. It was only 7:15 AM when we passed the cathedral and Gaudi's fairytale bishop's palace before leaving the small city of Astorga. 

The Camino took us along delightful paths lined with purple lavender and yellow broom. We passed through several villages so we had lots of opportunity to have a cafe con leche. The trail climbed imperceptibly and the snow covered mountains came closer and closer.

Finally, we entered Rabanal and, after buying bread, cheese, yogurt, chips, bananas and oranges and a chocolate bar, we had a delightful picnic outside near a broken down house.

After our lunch the camino did some serious climbing. But we are all Billy goats now, having walked everyday since May 5. It was not a big deal. The flora changed to alpine plants like heather and gorse. Both varieties presented in white as well as pink. Everything is in bloom. Quite spectacular.

A few more kilometers and we finally arrived in Foncebadon. This is one of the "abandoned" mountain towns around here. Lots of stone houses in complete disrepair. But because of the popularity of the Camino (230,000 estimated this year alone) business has revived. We are in a rather nice place and they serve dinner from 5 PM on, which is unheard of elsewhere. Pilgrims love this. They are tired and hungry. We had to choose from the menu at 2:30 when we arrived. Spaghetti soup, chicken stew, icecream. And bread and wine. All for 9 Euros.  

We are elated that the scenery is breathtaking again, with mountains and hills covered with flowering bushes. We are almost at 1,500 meters and it seems that you can just about touch the clouds!

Tomorrow, La Cruz de Ferro, highest point on the Camino at 1,505 meters. And the place to leave our stones from home!

No weefee ( the Spanish pronunciation of WiFi) here so I will post this tomorrow in Ponferrada, a big town, 28.2 K away. Our next stop.

236.7 K to go to Santiago. Our plan is to arrive June 13 in Santiago.

That's our hotel for the night. Very nice!  Most of the houses are abandoned. This morning, at breakfast, Gregorian chant was piped over the speakers!

We are starting to see a lot more crosses as we are getting closer to Santiago.

Amazing heather all over the place!

Astorga

We were walking by 7:30 AM and got to our accomodation in Astorga at 4 PM. This includes a few breaks but it was still a brutal day at 31.2 K. I can comfortably walk for 20 K and after that it becomes a chore. The feet and other body parts start to hurt. I begin to lean on my walking poles as if they are crutches. We killed off 10 K in a hurry first thing this morning. We were in scenery that reminded us of Ladner, very flat with irrigation ditches and snow covered mountains ahead of us. These mountains got closer as the day progressed and tomorrow we start climbing them. We'll see how that goes!

Around noon we entered the lovely town of Hospital de Orbigo which has the longest Roman bridge in Spain. The Camino goes right over it. We stopped in a garden cafe for an omelet which turned out to be a potato/ egg quiche. A bit bland. We are craving some decent food and are going to splurge tonight. 

After our lunch we entered a lovely, natural trail through meadows and forests. Very nice except for stretches of cobble stones. On the Camino there is a kind of dance pilgrims do. They meander from side to side, always looking for the path with the least stones. We climbed into the foothills and at a crest there was a kind of cantina run by a young couple. They were offering fruit and drinks for free or donation. We had some watermelon but felt suspicious of this gesture. We found it hard to accept something for free although the couple seemed genuine in wanting to serve the passing pilgrims.

Soon after, we saw Astorga in the distance, below us. It still was at least 6 K away so we trudged on. Like some cruel joke we had to cross a railroad via an accordian-type bridge. We managed! Up one more hill, past the city wall and there was our hotel for the night. This hotel is known for its good food so we are waiting until 8:30 (usual dinner time here) to try to get a decent meal. Yesterday we ate white bread and Nutella for dinner. Hence the splurge tonight.

The Roman bridge in Hospital de Orbigo

The camino goes over this bridge. Set up for a jousting contest soon.

Bert doing the Camino Dance.

This woman is pulling her belongings with a home made buggy!

The cantine with free food for pilgrims. Structure behind the tree is where the couple lives.

Accordian bridge over one railroad track as we entered Astoria.