Burgos

"My feet didn't stop hurting, but I tasted the morning's fresh air and the huge priviledge of another day of walking." by Maria and Donald Schell in Ultreia! Forward!

We had a long day (25.6 K) ahead of us so we began walking at 7 AM when the sun was just rising. It was so chilly that we all wore gloves to keep our fingers warm when using our poles. 

The morning was lovely with the Camino meandering through woods, along quiet country roads and through several villages. In fact, we stopped twice for cafe con leche. It is fun to bump into and chat with the same people over several days. 

By midmorning we climbed a very stony mountain and bumped into Arlene and Joyce. We had not seen them for a while. The view from the top was the city of Burgos, our destination.

What a slog to get there. First a long haul around the airport and then a seemingly endless trek through an industrial area to get to the heart of the city. But, finally, there was the glorious cathedral and just steps from there our hotel. We have a rest day tomorrow and plan to explore the interior of the cathedral. 

Wild flowers on our climb this morning.

A very rocky stretch of Camino. Makes you wonder if it is the right route. However, the yellow arrow says, Yes!

One of many crosses along the Camino.

Diane and I in front of the cathedral.

St. Juan de Ortega, May 17

lToday was a 24.3 K day. The start of our day was very cold. We are at a fairly high altitude and I think at 8 AM it is no more than 4 degrees. Those narrow streets are like wind tunnels and it feels like you are in a meat cooler. However, with the sunshine and a good hill we quickly warm up.

Today we initially wandered through 4 villages. We always look for plastic tables and chairs which are good indicators of cafe con leche. Then there is the daily quest for fresh bread and fruit for our picnic lunch. 

After the last village we climbed a very lengthy hill. But when we reached the top there were picnic tables and we had our lunch. 

After our lunch the trail led into a massive pine forest. There seemed to be no end to this. Luckily we were distracted by the lovely pinks and whites of large heather bushes as well as the bright yellow of broom. After a good two hours of this we finally descended out of the forest and into a lovely green valley where St. Juan de Ortega is situated. Population: 20. Altitude: 950 M. It caters mainly to pilgrims, with one hotel and one albergue. 

So far we are doing very well with few complaints. Blisters are healing and feet are toughening up. Everyone is kind and there is always something to eat somewhere. The scenery continues to amaze! 

Jeff carrying our fresh bread for lunch.

Diane and I still smiling at the beginning of a new day.

Diane and Bert ascending a very steep hill.

Belorado

We are in a small medieval town now that has a good collection of nesting storks. Cliffs with caves form the backdrop. At first you think no- one lives here. But follow the voices and you discover a cosy square with a few places to have a cold beer or coke and something to eat. We recognize almost everyone from our walking. Right beside us sits Ken, a Franciscan priest, with whom we have a lively discussion.

Today's walk was for a large part along a busy highway. We were grateful for a designated pilgrim's path because years ago pilgrims simply walked on the shoulder of the highway. It was a 23 K day but we were distracted by several enchanting villages that we passed through. We ate our picnic lunch in one of these and were thrilled to have some fresh strawberries to feast on. 

Now we are in our cosy room wiling away a bit of time before the 7 PM perigrino dinner. 

Just 555 K to go!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

"It was more as if the landscape very slowly passed us by than we it." by Conrad Rudolph from Ultreia! Onward!

Another beautiful day on peaceful backroads, passing huge, rolling fields of barley, wheat, grapevines, etc. We viewed our destination from afar, little realizing that the distance was much farther than we thought. The last part of the day is always a push. Feet hurt and we get tired. 

In Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is an ancient story about a chicken coming alive on someone's dinner plate. An innocent boy was condemned to death but his life was saved at the last minute. To this day,  a few chickens are housed in the cathedral here to commemorate this story. 

I have my own Camino miracle. My pinched toe nerve has been solved by new orthotics I obtained at the last minute at home. They are working and I do not have to massage my toe every hour to relieve pain. 

Still smiling even though I am dealing with some blisters here.

Arlene and Joyce taking a break.

In the canola field.

Jeff admiring the barley field.

Bert, Diane and I happy to be approaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada after five hours of walking.

Taking a break with Bert and Diane on a concrete lounge chair.

Najera

"We are pilgrims, anxious to make sense of the mystery of why we put ourselves on this road." by Jack Hitt in Ultreia! Onward!

Today was a shorter day that led us past vineyards to the large town of Najera. We exclaimed at all the different types of pilgrims that we meet. A father with his four young children, a grandma with daughter and granddaughter, a mother and grown son, lots of bikers, and a couple with two mules. If you think this is for athletes, think again. There are all types and all ages walking the Camino.

Just before entering Najera there is a famous graffitti poem called, "Pilgrim, Who Calls You?" Is it the wine, the cathedrals, the castles, the people, the landscape? In the end it is a mystery why people make this journey. 

We are doing well and the weather remains stellar. 

Waiting for our simple pilgrim's meal in Viana.

Gold leaf decore in cathedral in Viana. Every town we pass has a cathedral like this.

Pilgrim's poem just before entering Najera. Pilgrim, Who Calls You?

Pilgrim with a mule. In Najera. Apparently they refused to cross a narrow bridge earlier in the day.

Navarette

The enormity of what we are undertaking is starting to take hold. Our bodies are saying we have had fun but now it is time to go home. We have to learn to take it one day at a time. It is mainly the feet. The trail is not challenging at all except for hills. A good night's sleep does wonders even for battered feet!

Today we spent a large bit of time winding our way through the city of Logrono. The signage was so good that you could not get lost unless you were dreaming. Lots of yellow arrows everywhere. And if you take a wrong turn locals will kindly redirect you. So fun to hear local people say Buen Camino as we pass by. 

So far it seems more a physical challenge rather than a spiritual experience. We did attend a mass on Sunday night in Los Arcos but it was all in Spanish. We did, however, make out words like Christo, porto and eglesia. At the time we did not realize why people were rushing to the front after the mass. Then we learned that they were getting a pilgrim's blessing.

Resting up before the climb into Navarette.

A typical lunch. Bridge into Ligrono. Wild irises. Approach into Navarette at the end of our walking day.

Viana

Just 18 K today through olive groves, vineyards and even an almond orchard. The latter had fuzzy green pods on the trees. At first I thought it was a plum tree. The walking is becoming a bit of a mental game in that we psych ourselves up for the day's distance. When we approach our destination the aches start showing up and we hobble towards the inn. Then, boots off and cold water on the overheated feet. Aaah! Then we go for a cold beer before showering and washing our clothes, usually at the same time. 

Today was lovely again but with a few very steep ups and downs. It's hilly around here. There are splashes of red poppies everwhere. And we had a lovely picnic lunch in a quiet spot by a vineyard. 

In the morning there was a lot of sheep droppings on the path and before long we caught up with the herd and shepherd.