Caldzilla de los Hermonillas

We have arrived in the most charming of inns. A lovely couple run it and they bend over backwads for us. Right now we are sitting in a living room and a fire is going to make it extra cosy. For lunch they served up a beef soup that they assured us would wake the dead. Believe me, I needed that kind of soup today.

I have hit the wall. My feet hurt with each step and my body seems stuck. Last night I could not eat dinner because of exhaustion. And I love my food!

I have decided to take a few rest days in Leon. My incredible husband made all the arrangements and I will go to Leon after breakfast tomorrow. He will meet me there the following day. As will Bert and Diane.

Today was supposed to be a short day but we had to backtrack to get on the right route. We made our way through lovely woodlands and fields and were rewarded with poppies, lavender and other wild flowers. 

Last night in Sahagun we had the misfortune of staying in a rundown place. In addition, there was a wedding party below and we heard booming music until 2 PM. We also were very cold and I wore thick clothes and socks in bed. This morning we all had a laugh about our shared woes. And then Bert spotted a cockroach. Needless to say, we feel well taken care of in this neat, cosy place with these nice people.

This morning's poppy field. We managed to avoid rain and it turned out to be a pleasant day.

And the road went on and on.......

Some of the lavender we encountered.

Sahagun

lToday we walked 22.7 miles to the large town of Sahagun. On the way, we had cafe con leche at the small village of Terradillos de los Templarios. This town is the half way point between St. Jean Pied de Port and Santiago. It is hard to imagine that we have already walked 400 K. It is equally difficult to think that we have another 400 K to go. However, it is going well except for some blisters that make my feet feel like minced meat at the end of the day. I am hoping my feet will toughen up really soon. The town is also famous as a former stronghold of the Knights of Templar. 

After two days of wind and rain we had a glorious day of sunshine. The route was also better with more variety and villages to stop in. In one place someone made us a crusty sandwich filled with fried egg, cheese and ham. That went down extremely well. 

Right now we are in a bit of a dump with a very small room and the tiniest of bathrooms. But I suppose we should be thankful for a private room and hot water. And we are!

Soon, we will meet Arlene and Joyce for another pilgrims' dinner at a place recommended by an Englishman from Yorkshire we met this afternoon. He is going home because his legs gave out. 

This is a very long walk and sometimes really hard. However, soon we will be in Leon for a rest day. We are all looking forward to that!

Today's walk. No wind, rain or mud. Lovely!

A typical "senda" where the camino goes beside a road. This one was pleasant with flowers and fields.

Calzadilla de la Cueza

Today we had to walk just 17.1 K so we left a little later and treated the day like a rest day. Big mistake! This is the only stretch on the whole Camino that has no villages to stop at. So it was a slog through a featureless landscape that just went on and on. On top of this, we had to deal with a serious headwind almost the whole way. However, the sky was blue again and for the first time we noticed wild lavender growing along side the path. 

Finally we arrived at the tiny village of Calzadilla where we were warmly welcomed with beer and delicious pizza. We chatted with three ladies from Oregon/California about our morning. There is a huge, immediate bond between everyone, young and old, because of common experiences. Everyone struggled with that wind this morning and everyone thought the trail was too long and boring. And we keep bumping into the same people.  

On the straight and narrow this morning. This is a Roman road as well but it got covered up with gravel.

Dealing with hot spots on my feet!

A break! Bert is either helping Diane back onto her feet (we stiffen up) or he is handing her some of that wild lavender.

Finally approaching Calzadilla. Notice all those little pebbles. You sure feel each one after a while!

Our pilgrims dinner last night. Nice to reconnect with Joyce and Arlene.

Carrying on to Carrion de los Condes

"I loved the feeling of a portable, waterproof house over me. I was a pilgrim, going slow, but getting there, a travelling turtle". by Shirley MacLaine in Ultreia! Forward!

Today we were on the road by 6:45 AM because we had another long day. The weather was the same as yesterday with a cold wind and rain. We all bundled up and our gear worked for us. But it was a slog, walking into that wind for hours. On one particularly long stretch I suddenly remembered that we were walking on the longest stretch of original Roman road left in Spain. That perked us all up for a while. Twice we stopped for cafe con leche just to get out of the wind and warm up. We are becoming grateful for small things. In one place someone made us a chicken soup which hit the spot.

When we arrived in Carrion, there were Joyce and Arlene. Had not seen them for a few days. We all caught up with each other and might try to go together for a pilgrim's meal later. 

Today we were introduced to the "senda" which is a pilgrim's path right next to a highway. This path went on for hours and became quite tedious. I suppose we should be glad not to have to walk right on the shoulder of the highway. Hopefully, we won't have too much of this in the coming weeks.

Old Roman road with the cobble stones. Most pilgrims walk on the edges to protect their feet!

Jeff and I having fun with yet another pilgrim's statue.

The fields of poppies that continue to delight us.

The magical entry into Hontanas on Monday. It was hidden in a small valley. We went to an English pilgrim's mass in that church. Note the yellow arrow on the rock. The arrows have guided us for almost 400 K already!

Boadilla

OK! Today was a test day! We encountered some weather. We started out with 2 hours of rain. A good chance to try out our rain gear. Diane and I were fine but Bert and Jeff were not happy with their rain pants. We stopped in a small village for some cafe con leche and a giant cookie. Then out again in our wet stuff. Soon, we encountered a massive hill and then were toasty warm again. In the afternoon, however, we had to negotiate the infamous Camino mud. It is like glue and sticks to your shoes in big, heavy clumps. Then the wind kicked in and we were struggling with that all afternoon. How wonderful to arrive at our destination and have a cosy, clean room and shower. 

The scenery continues to amaze us. We encountered poppies again although their red heads were drooping in the rain. 

Jeff and I walking in the rain today.

A long road under a threatening sky.

Hontanas

"I can almost hear the muffled tread of feet along the road", by Laurie Dennett in Ultreia! Onward!

Today we walked 31.8 K from Burgos to Hontanas where we are right now. This took 7 1/2 hours, with breaks. But what glorious scenery. We have entered the Meseta which is basically a high plateau, around 1,000 M high. However, it is not flat but consists of rolling hills. Even though there is a very lonely feel the ground is cultivated with wheat and barley. The sky was full of fluffy clouds and the grass rippled in the wind. 

The last 10 K seemed so long and we could not see a village ahead of us. At last, we crested a hill and there was the little town of Hontanas, nestled in a deep valley. Quite magical to come upon it like that. We went to our cosy rooms (attic with big sky light) and let cold water run over our hot feet before going for a thirst quenching beer in the town square filled with pilgrims, all with their shoes off!

A big highlight today was attending a mass at 5:30 PM in the 16th century village church. This was led by a Franciscan priest from California. He is walking the Camino as well and we have met him several times already. The service was in English and so ecumenical. Diane and I almost blubbered our way through the whole thing. Arlene and Joyce experienced this a few days back in another village.

Tomorrow is not quite so long and we might get some rain. That would be a first. 

Rest Day in Burgos

Today we had a leisurely breakfast at 8:30 AM at our hotel. No rushing to get away early. The first thing we did was tour the cathedral. It is gothic with a relatively small nave but many different chapels along the sides. It is always a relief to me to get outside into the fresh air again after being inside one of these collosal buildings. 

Then we shopped a bit for things like Compeed and toothpaste. And there is always time for cafe con leche. While we roamed the old center we enjoyed lots of street sculptures. Our lunch was a fresh bun with ham and cheese and, finally, a glass of really good Spanish white wine. White wine is included with cheap perigrino meals but is generally almost undrinkable (my opinion).

Finally an English  newspaper......not!

Two new friends.

Two pilgrims!

The great white wine I enjoyed at lunch.

A stork's nest near by! The birds make a clacking sound.