Boadilla

OK! Today was a test day! We encountered some weather. We started out with 2 hours of rain. A good chance to try out our rain gear. Diane and I were fine but Bert and Jeff were not happy with their rain pants. We stopped in a small village for some cafe con leche and a giant cookie. Then out again in our wet stuff. Soon, we encountered a massive hill and then were toasty warm again. In the afternoon, however, we had to negotiate the infamous Camino mud. It is like glue and sticks to your shoes in big, heavy clumps. Then the wind kicked in and we were struggling with that all afternoon. How wonderful to arrive at our destination and have a cosy, clean room and shower. 

The scenery continues to amaze us. We encountered poppies again although their red heads were drooping in the rain. 

Jeff and I walking in the rain today.

A long road under a threatening sky.

Hontanas

"I can almost hear the muffled tread of feet along the road", by Laurie Dennett in Ultreia! Onward!

Today we walked 31.8 K from Burgos to Hontanas where we are right now. This took 7 1/2 hours, with breaks. But what glorious scenery. We have entered the Meseta which is basically a high plateau, around 1,000 M high. However, it is not flat but consists of rolling hills. Even though there is a very lonely feel the ground is cultivated with wheat and barley. The sky was full of fluffy clouds and the grass rippled in the wind. 

The last 10 K seemed so long and we could not see a village ahead of us. At last, we crested a hill and there was the little town of Hontanas, nestled in a deep valley. Quite magical to come upon it like that. We went to our cosy rooms (attic with big sky light) and let cold water run over our hot feet before going for a thirst quenching beer in the town square filled with pilgrims, all with their shoes off!

A big highlight today was attending a mass at 5:30 PM in the 16th century village church. This was led by a Franciscan priest from California. He is walking the Camino as well and we have met him several times already. The service was in English and so ecumenical. Diane and I almost blubbered our way through the whole thing. Arlene and Joyce experienced this a few days back in another village.

Tomorrow is not quite so long and we might get some rain. That would be a first. 

Rest Day in Burgos

Today we had a leisurely breakfast at 8:30 AM at our hotel. No rushing to get away early. The first thing we did was tour the cathedral. It is gothic with a relatively small nave but many different chapels along the sides. It is always a relief to me to get outside into the fresh air again after being inside one of these collosal buildings. 

Then we shopped a bit for things like Compeed and toothpaste. And there is always time for cafe con leche. While we roamed the old center we enjoyed lots of street sculptures. Our lunch was a fresh bun with ham and cheese and, finally, a glass of really good Spanish white wine. White wine is included with cheap perigrino meals but is generally almost undrinkable (my opinion).

Finally an English  newspaper......not!

Two new friends.

Two pilgrims!

The great white wine I enjoyed at lunch.

A stork's nest near by! The birds make a clacking sound.

Burgos

"My feet didn't stop hurting, but I tasted the morning's fresh air and the huge priviledge of another day of walking." by Maria and Donald Schell in Ultreia! Forward!

We had a long day (25.6 K) ahead of us so we began walking at 7 AM when the sun was just rising. It was so chilly that we all wore gloves to keep our fingers warm when using our poles. 

The morning was lovely with the Camino meandering through woods, along quiet country roads and through several villages. In fact, we stopped twice for cafe con leche. It is fun to bump into and chat with the same people over several days. 

By midmorning we climbed a very stony mountain and bumped into Arlene and Joyce. We had not seen them for a while. The view from the top was the city of Burgos, our destination.

What a slog to get there. First a long haul around the airport and then a seemingly endless trek through an industrial area to get to the heart of the city. But, finally, there was the glorious cathedral and just steps from there our hotel. We have a rest day tomorrow and plan to explore the interior of the cathedral. 

Wild flowers on our climb this morning.

A very rocky stretch of Camino. Makes you wonder if it is the right route. However, the yellow arrow says, Yes!

One of many crosses along the Camino.

Diane and I in front of the cathedral.

St. Juan de Ortega, May 17

lToday was a 24.3 K day. The start of our day was very cold. We are at a fairly high altitude and I think at 8 AM it is no more than 4 degrees. Those narrow streets are like wind tunnels and it feels like you are in a meat cooler. However, with the sunshine and a good hill we quickly warm up.

Today we initially wandered through 4 villages. We always look for plastic tables and chairs which are good indicators of cafe con leche. Then there is the daily quest for fresh bread and fruit for our picnic lunch. 

After the last village we climbed a very lengthy hill. But when we reached the top there were picnic tables and we had our lunch. 

After our lunch the trail led into a massive pine forest. There seemed to be no end to this. Luckily we were distracted by the lovely pinks and whites of large heather bushes as well as the bright yellow of broom. After a good two hours of this we finally descended out of the forest and into a lovely green valley where St. Juan de Ortega is situated. Population: 20. Altitude: 950 M. It caters mainly to pilgrims, with one hotel and one albergue. 

So far we are doing very well with few complaints. Blisters are healing and feet are toughening up. Everyone is kind and there is always something to eat somewhere. The scenery continues to amaze! 

Jeff carrying our fresh bread for lunch.

Diane and I still smiling at the beginning of a new day.

Diane and Bert ascending a very steep hill.

Belorado

We are in a small medieval town now that has a good collection of nesting storks. Cliffs with caves form the backdrop. At first you think no- one lives here. But follow the voices and you discover a cosy square with a few places to have a cold beer or coke and something to eat. We recognize almost everyone from our walking. Right beside us sits Ken, a Franciscan priest, with whom we have a lively discussion.

Today's walk was for a large part along a busy highway. We were grateful for a designated pilgrim's path because years ago pilgrims simply walked on the shoulder of the highway. It was a 23 K day but we were distracted by several enchanting villages that we passed through. We ate our picnic lunch in one of these and were thrilled to have some fresh strawberries to feast on. 

Now we are in our cosy room wiling away a bit of time before the 7 PM perigrino dinner. 

Just 555 K to go!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

"It was more as if the landscape very slowly passed us by than we it." by Conrad Rudolph from Ultreia! Onward!

Another beautiful day on peaceful backroads, passing huge, rolling fields of barley, wheat, grapevines, etc. We viewed our destination from afar, little realizing that the distance was much farther than we thought. The last part of the day is always a push. Feet hurt and we get tired. 

In Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is an ancient story about a chicken coming alive on someone's dinner plate. An innocent boy was condemned to death but his life was saved at the last minute. To this day,  a few chickens are housed in the cathedral here to commemorate this story. 

I have my own Camino miracle. My pinched toe nerve has been solved by new orthotics I obtained at the last minute at home. They are working and I do not have to massage my toe every hour to relieve pain. 

Still smiling even though I am dealing with some blisters here.

Arlene and Joyce taking a break.

In the canola field.

Jeff admiring the barley field.

Bert, Diane and I happy to be approaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada after five hours of walking.

Taking a break with Bert and Diane on a concrete lounge chair.