Najera

"We are pilgrims, anxious to make sense of the mystery of why we put ourselves on this road." by Jack Hitt in Ultreia! Onward!

Today was a shorter day that led us past vineyards to the large town of Najera. We exclaimed at all the different types of pilgrims that we meet. A father with his four young children, a grandma with daughter and granddaughter, a mother and grown son, lots of bikers, and a couple with two mules. If you think this is for athletes, think again. There are all types and all ages walking the Camino.

Just before entering Najera there is a famous graffitti poem called, "Pilgrim, Who Calls You?" Is it the wine, the cathedrals, the castles, the people, the landscape? In the end it is a mystery why people make this journey. 

We are doing well and the weather remains stellar. 

Waiting for our simple pilgrim's meal in Viana.

Gold leaf decore in cathedral in Viana. Every town we pass has a cathedral like this.

Pilgrim's poem just before entering Najera. Pilgrim, Who Calls You?

Pilgrim with a mule. In Najera. Apparently they refused to cross a narrow bridge earlier in the day.

Navarette

The enormity of what we are undertaking is starting to take hold. Our bodies are saying we have had fun but now it is time to go home. We have to learn to take it one day at a time. It is mainly the feet. The trail is not challenging at all except for hills. A good night's sleep does wonders even for battered feet!

Today we spent a large bit of time winding our way through the city of Logrono. The signage was so good that you could not get lost unless you were dreaming. Lots of yellow arrows everywhere. And if you take a wrong turn locals will kindly redirect you. So fun to hear local people say Buen Camino as we pass by. 

So far it seems more a physical challenge rather than a spiritual experience. We did attend a mass on Sunday night in Los Arcos but it was all in Spanish. We did, however, make out words like Christo, porto and eglesia. At the time we did not realize why people were rushing to the front after the mass. Then we learned that they were getting a pilgrim's blessing.

Resting up before the climb into Navarette.

A typical lunch. Bridge into Ligrono. Wild irises. Approach into Navarette at the end of our walking day.

Viana

Just 18 K today through olive groves, vineyards and even an almond orchard. The latter had fuzzy green pods on the trees. At first I thought it was a plum tree. The walking is becoming a bit of a mental game in that we psych ourselves up for the day's distance. When we approach our destination the aches start showing up and we hobble towards the inn. Then, boots off and cold water on the overheated feet. Aaah! Then we go for a cold beer before showering and washing our clothes, usually at the same time. 

Today was lovely again but with a few very steep ups and downs. It's hilly around here. There are splashes of red poppies everwhere. And we had a lovely picnic lunch in a quiet spot by a vineyard. 

In the morning there was a lot of sheep droppings on the path and before long we caught up with the herd and shepherd.

Los Arcos

"Walking doesn't so much allow me to live in the moment as force me to." (Laurie Dennett in Ultreia! Onward!)

Today we walked 21 K to Los Arcos under overcast skies and much cooler weather. In the morning we had the option of a much quieter route. We took this and it led us through a lovely forest and over another mountain. In the afternoon we meandered past massive fields of barley and wheat.

We are turning into walking machines. Click, click with our poles. We average about 7 hours of walking a day, including breaks. The feet are taking a beating but everything else seems to be hanging in there. Tomorrow we "only" have 18.6 K to go. A break, of sorts.

Jeff's camera is giving up. We tried an i-pad (awkward when walking) and now he is using his i-phone. 

The wine fountain. Free wine for the pilgrims! My friend, Arlene, going for it!

Starting fresh at 7:30 AM this morning from Estella. My sister, Diane, with me! What a treat!

Sometimes the path is very narrow! 

Estella

"As I walked in the very strong sun, I prayed in thanksgiving for this chance to be a pilgrim". (David Gibson, from Ultreia! Onward.)

Another amazing day. Highlights were the approach to a hilltop town (Cirauqui) as well as seeing fields of red poppies. I have walked two days without sunglasses because I lost them in Pamplona. Finally in a larger center now

and was able to get a new pair. Also, welcomed my first blister. Hello to Compeed products. It is getting hotter now. Not much shade and Jeff's watch registered 37 degrees this afternoon. The upside is that we are dealing with no mud at all. 

Yesterday we had a wonderful pilgrim's dinner. Usually they are cheap and spartan. This was a banquet laid out for us. Fish, meat, lasagna, salads (have not had a vegetable for a week now), scoop your own icecream (three flavours), beer and wine. All for 13 Euros. We all went nuts over this. There is definitely a spiritual element here!

We are hanging around now for our 8  PM dinner. It's basically eat and then sleep.

Photo taken by fellow pilgrim Bert Slofstra.

A few more pics from the road to Puenta La Reina....

Sometimes wifi is very slow or everyone is on it at once. It may happen that we can't post then. The pilgrims's monument is on top of the mountain we traversed yesterday. Very windy there. Hence all the windmills.

Puenta La Reina

Another glorious day. Each day we say that this one is the best yet. The sunshine and spring conditions helps. We left Pamplona at 8 AM and the terrific signage got us out of the city in about an hour. Then it was a steady climb up Alto del Perdon (Mountain of Forgiveness) to the top where we encountered windmills and the pilgrimage sculpture. After a steep descent down a stony path we made our way along lush fields until we arrived after about 7 hours in the town where we are now. Altogether 24 K. A few minor aches and pains are cropping up but nothing serious. We hope it stays that way. Waiting now for a pilgrim dinner at 7:30. They eat late here.